Hi this is Ron von Ron’s Tron tutorials. Today I want to show you in a compact and
detailed way how to assemble a desktop ATX PC System. The following is a universal guide, because
there are many different manufacturers, brands and variants of components and they are constantly
changing I will not go into specific performance, but show a basic design that is applicable
to almost all PCs , The order of assembly of the individual components shown by me has
proven to me. I do not care about assembling as fast as
possible, but I want to perform and show each step exactly. Other approaches are just as possible. The components I use are partly used, some
new. Whenever possible, I try to reuse components
such as cases, power supplies or hard disks, saving money and protecting the limited resources
of our planet. I have this used PC case here that I want
to use. So first all the old stuff has to go out. It is a standard case with 2 front USB ports. After the housing is cleaned, I first want
to put in the power supply, which will later supplies all the components with power at
the right voltage. I have two used standard power supplies and
I will install the stronger one of them. I check the power output specified on the
housing. It is also important that the power supply
has the right connectors that will be needed later. I need an ATX connector for the mainboard
with 20 or 24 pins, the processor power supply with 4 or 8 pins, and a SATA power cable for
the SATA drive. Since I will use a simple passive cooled graphics
card, it doesnt need an extra power supply. The power supply is placed in the area with
the large opening, usually at the back of the housing and secured with 4 screws. It is important, that the fan, as well as
the grids do not face against a housing wall. Because without proper air flow, cooling will
not be possible. Since the mainboard is the basis of all other
components, the entire system must be checked for the selection of the mainboard. The mainboard connects all other components. If you want to use certain features on your
new PC, such as a fast USB 3.0 port, then mainboard must support this feature. If a motherboard does not have this function,
even a fast processor or RAM can not change that. The mainboard is not supposed to touch the
rear wall of the housing, therefore spacers must be installed. First we screw the mainboard spacers into
the marked holes. First by hand and then i use a 5mm socket
to tighten them. The mainboard manual tells you how many screws
are to be used. Also check the Information directly on the
mainboard slide. You can also arrange the spacers well after
the holes in the mainboard. Next, we put the bezel of the back mainboard
connectors into the back wall of the chassis. This part is supplied with the mainboard. I press the sheet from the inside into the
gap until it clicks into place. Have it the right way around to match the
connectors of the board. Then gently lower the board into the housing
so that the connectors slide through the corresponding slots in the bezel. At the same time, the screw holes in the mainboard
must overlap the spacers. Raise the board slightly so that the already
installed spacers will not damage the mainboard from the bottom. This step is sometimes fiddly, but no problem
with some patience. As always, you should not use big force here. Then screw the mainboard to all spacers with
the housing. For an ATX board it is usually nine screws. Start at the middle screw and then always
put opposite screws, thus preventing the sensitive board from getting too much tension. Again, do not tighten the screws too tight,
otherwise you could damage the motherboard. Now we can already connect the power supply
to the mainboard. First, we connect the the 20 or 24 pin ATX
connector. Push the wide plug into the socket until the
side hook locks it. Because of the notches, the plug can only
be connected in one direction, so you can not go wrong. Now the CPU processor power supply can be
connected. The connector has four or eight pins and is
usually located between the CPU socket and rear mainboard edge. If the plug has eight pins, do not confuse
it with a PCI Express power cable for graphics cards. The plugs are usually labeled. Mechanically, however, only the right plug
fits in the right socket. Most cases have front ports for USB (2.0,
3.0, 3.1), headset, and sometimes HDMI. Our case has USB, and two audio ports. I connect the plugs to the corresponding connections. For orientation and purpose, it is essential
to refer to the case and mainboard instructions. I
now connect the data lines of the front panel. This includes the cabling of power and reset
switches as well as the status LEDs for power supply and hard drive. The connections are distributed over several
cables. Most of the labels on the housing cables must
point away from the conector as here. Both the operating system, like Windows, as
well as all installed programs and application data such as images, music, etc. will be stored
on the main drive. The fastest access speed is achieved with
SSDs nowadays. These are memory chips without mechanical
components. SSD drives are offered in size 2.5 inches
and therefore do not fit easily into the bigger hard drive bays. Meanwhile, more and more cases have special
slots for the smaller SSDs. I use an mounting adapter to secure the SSD. This adapter can then be screwed into the
housing. The connections should point to the mainboard. In the next step, Now I connect one of the
SATA power cables from the power supply to the SSD. The plug looks like this fits only in one
direction and therefore can not be connected the wrong way. In order to have room to install the other
components, I tuck the remaining wires together so that they are not in the way. This can also be done at the very end, but
this way it makes the further installs easier. I slip unused wires into one of the empty
bays and use zip ties to neatly lay all cables. I connect the hard drive to the motherboard
with a SATA data cable. Additional SATA slots are available on the
mainboard. So you can connect more hard drives for more
storage, or optical drives like Blu-ray or DVD drives. Since I only watch movies and music online
on Amazon Prime, I won’t installation additional drives for now. Check if you really need an extra drive, because
most of the data will be transferred via USB stick or cloud nowadays. In the next step, I put the RAM memory on
the mainboard. To find the right memory modules, take a look
at the mainboard information, because the module has to fit the board. Here, the memory type is indicated as DDR3,
In addition, attention must be paid to the maximum individual capacity of 8Gb in this
case and the supported frequencies up to 2133 megahertz. This means we can use DDR3 modules with a
maximum frequency of 2133Mhz and a maximum of 8Gb per module. To insert the memory modules into the slots
on the mainboard, you first open the locking of the slots that are to be used. Always choose identical colored slots. In order to use the so-called dual-channel
mode, you should always prefer to use two smaller bars than a single module with double
capacity. Some mainboards support quad-channel RAM. Here you should equip the memory for maximum
performance not in pairs, but in four-packs. Insert the RAM module into the slot from the
top. Make sure that the latch on both sides is
in the guide and that the notch on the module contact bar is right above the nose in the
slot. Finally, press the memory module down evenly
with both hands. When the memory latch is properly seated in
the slot, the mounting tab automatically folds into the side notch and the RAM locks in place. The second bar is installed the same way. The heart of a computer is the processor,
which is mounted on the mainboard. Different processors and manufacturers use
different connection sockets. The processor, in this case an AMD FX must
therefore have the socket AM3 + to fit on the mainboard with the socket AM3 +. Makes sense right, so check before you order
these parts. Installing a processor is not that complicated. First, the socket must be unlocked. This is done by folding up this lever. Then the processor can be unpacked. Be careful not to touch the pins on the bottom. AMD processors have a small triangle in one
corner of socket and CPU to help with alignment. Only if both triangles are on top of each
other, the pins slip in the holes without pressure. Do not use force here! After placing, we lock the base by placing
the metal lever down and letting it snap into place. There is hardly any force required. This mechanism pinches the processor so that
it can not fall out. All computing processes run through the processor
that’s why it can be very hot during operation. To not have it overheating a cooler must be
installed. I will briefly show how I install the included
cooler. For the installation of a high-quality and
quiet CPU cooler, I recommend my video for installation and noise measurement of a super
silent BeQuiet cooler. This standard cooler is delivered all assembled. The thermal paste is already applied so that
you can simply place it on the AM3 + socket. The standard attachment mechanism basically
consists of two plastic retention noses on the mainboard. Over these noses, the metal eyelets of the
radiator are placed and tightened with this lever. Then just connect the 3 or 4 pin fan cable
to the board and the cooler is all installed. Before we can get started with installing
the graphics card, we need to remove the slot panels behind the PCI Express slot that is
going to be used. Loosen the screw and take the piece of sheet
metal out of the housing. Some housings have screwless brackets to be
pushed out. In the next step, I put the graphics card
into the PCI Express slot. There are a few things to keep in mind: First,
that the contact strip of the graphics card really slips into the slot. Second, ensure that the thin bracket is in
the narrow gap between the housing rear panel and the mainboard. And third, that the plastic nose for locking
the PCI Express slot is not in the way. If necessary, simply leverage the nose a little
bit to the side with your finger or a screwdriver. Press evenly on the top until the card slides
into place and the angled end rests on the rear plate where we previously took out the
slot covers. In order to not have all the weight on the
board we secure the card with screws. Depending on the height of the card, this
happens with one or two screws, which are turned into the screw holes of the slot covers. There are also graphics cards with very big
cooling that require three screws. In order to be supplied with sufficient power,
some graphic cards need an additional power supply. This consists of one to two usually six-,
sometimes eight-pin plugs. I now got all the components installed and
wired. Now we only have to close the side case and
screw them on. To do this, insert the side panels slightly
tilted towards the front onto the housing and close them until they fit flat. In the final step, we screw the case covers
to the housing with two screws at the top and bottom. Done! – our new PC is fully assembled. In case your new PC does not want to start
after assembly, this is no cause for panic – mostly the problem is harmless and can be
solved quickly. You should then go through all components
step by step again and check all connections. I hope this video about the PC assembly of
the basic parts has helped you. Of course you can still add more components
to the system whenever you want. Product links for the computer components
can be found in the video description. Please feel free to leave a comment below. Check out my channel for more informative
videos. Please smash that like button and don’t forget
to subscribe, thank you for watching and see you next time, this is Ron from Ron’s Tron


  1. May should like a dumb question but both my graphics card and mother board have a display port. Which do I use ?

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