How to Build a Computer for Gaming (2012) Part One

Hey guys, this is Austin and today I’m here
with a full tutorial on how to build a gaming computer. With the current
generation of consoles stuck in 2006 there’s never been a better time
to build yourself a gaming PC. To start with let me go over the parts which
are all from my latest $500 budget gaming build. If you’re building
that computer then perfect but even if you’re building a different machine this
tutorial still applies. I won’t go into detail on each part so if you want
to know more feel free to check out that video and then come back here when
you’re done. To build the computer you should have a decently sized
workspace and as far as tools go all you really need is a Phillips screwdriver
and a knife. You should also work on tile or hardwood floors as if you
build on carpet you could potentially build up some static electricity
which could harm your components. It’s also a good idea to touch
the steel case before handling any sensitive parts to ground yourself out.
The first step is grabbing our case which for this build is an Antec 300.
Bust out the unboxing knife and pop the cap on the box. You’ll find a bit
of foam and under that the instructions which of course we aren’t going
to look at. We’re rebels like that. Flip the box upside down and then pull
the box over the case. Then just pull the plastic wrap off and flip it
right-side up. Now that we’ve freed the case it’s a good idea to look
it over to check if it was damaged in shipping. If everything’s good move around
to the back and undo the four thumb screws holding the side panels on. Slide
both the left and right panels off so we have room to work. Inside
you should find a small box of accessories which will contain two small bags
of screws. Put these aside as we’ll be needing them a bit later. Push
the case off to the side for a bit and grab your power supply. Inside here is
another manual, the power cable, a few small screws and the supply itself.
Grab it and remove the plastic wrap. Now let’s install it. Make sure it’s oriented
correctly with the cables coming out the back and then place it on the bottom
of your case. There should be metal tabs to make sure you’ve got it properly
aligned but the best way to check is to look at the rear of the case.
There are four screw holes you’ll need to keep the supply in place, double check
that all of these are lined up. If not readjust the supply until it’s all
good. Grab the small bag of screws you got with the power supply and your screwdriver.
Drop a screw into one of the holes and tighten it decently but not
all the way in case something needs to be readjusted. Then go to the hole opposite
where the first screw is and do that one. Then just finish the last two
screws. Now that everything is in the proper place go back and tighten each
screw down to make sure the supply isn’t going anywhere. Nicely done, we have
the first component in our build installed. Push the case back for a bit and
grab your motherboard. In here you should find a pair of SATA cables, one
straight and one angled and the I/O shield for your ports. Set the motherboard
aside for a second and below you’ll find the manual and drivers DVD.
Set this one aside as it actually is helpful later on. Now gently pull the motherboard
out and set it on the bag. One thing to keep in mind is that the
motherboard is one of the most sensitive parts to static so when you are
handling it always touch it by the plastic parts. You should also leave it on
the anti-static bag instead of letting it sit on your table. Before we move
on let’s take a look at a few of the important features of the board. First
of all is the CPU socket which as the name implies is where your CPU goes.
To the right of this are the slots where you’ll install RAM. Below the
CPU socket you should see your PCI Express slots. These are what you’ll
plug your graphics card into as well as various other cards like Wi-Fi or
capture cards. Toward the bottom of the board are 4 SATA connectors which are
for connecting hard drives. On some motherboards you’ll have two types,
SATA 2 and SATA 3. The only difference is that SATA 3 is faster and works
better if you have an SSD. There are more important bits on the board
but those are the main things you need to learn. Now grab your processor.
If you’re using an Intel CPU like we are the process is identical but AMD
CPUs install slightly differently. Bust the box open and inside
you’ll find the manual along with a Core i3 sticker, stock heatsink and
fan along with the CPU which is a little too easy to overlook. Like the
motherboard this is an extremely delicate part so only touch it by the edges
when handling it. To install you’ll need to push back the arm holding
the socket closed and lift the protective cover off. Now line up the two
small notches on the CPU to the notches in the socket and gently rest it down.
Do not apply any pressure at all, it should rest nicely by itself. Lie
the cover back down and firmly press the arm down under the clip. It will
give a lot of resistance but don’t worry, just press it all the way down
until it’s secure. Now you’ve got one of the hardest parts of the build
taken care of. Moving on we have to install the heatsink. For this build I’ll
be using the stock Intel cooler however if you’re using an aftermarket cooler
then it’s best to look up a specific tutorial as they all install differently.
The stock cooler is easy, on the bottom you’ll find thermal paste
already applied. All you need to is align it over the CPU with each of the four
pegs inside the holes on the motherboard. Then press each down by starting
on the opposite corners until they click into place. Once it’s installed
you can lift the motherboard by the heatsink. Slide the motherboard off to
the side and grab your RAM. For this build we’ll be using a pair of 2GB
DIMMs which will give the build 4GB. These aren’t extremely delicate however
it’s still a good idea to only handle them by the heatsink or edges. On the bottom
you’ll find a series of gold pins with a slightly offset notch. You’ll see
a matching notch in the slot on the motherboard which means they can only go in
one way. Pop open the clips on the side and then drop the RAM in. Press firmly
on both ends until it snaps into place. Then just pop the other DIMM in the
same way and you’re good to go. That’s it for part one of this tutorial.
If you enjoyed definitely be sure to leave this video a thumbs up and check
out part two which will be on screen now as well as in a link in the description
of this video.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *