GeForce Garage – Watercooling RTX 2080 Ti for JayzTwoCents’ Skunkworks.


[Dwight]: What’s up everybody
my name is Dwight and welcome back
to GeForce garage. Since our touring
announcement in August, we’ve shown a
good number of builds that feature the
new graphics cards, but we have yet to put
an RTX 2080 Ti on water. So what’s a better way than to visit water cooling
expert Jaze TwoCents to show us how it’s done. So we’re here in
sunny southern California with Jaze TwoCents himself, who has been doing
a ton of overclocking on the 20 Series cards. To the extent where you’re actually Frankensteining
your own cards to beat people in an overclocking compeTiTion
that you’ve been doing. [Jaze]: Yeah.
When these cards come out, they don’t
typically have a block available to it immediately, so we had to kind of
come up with our own soluTions. And that’s what we did here. Not the pretTiest, but it definitely
gets the job done. [Dwight]: Yeah. But now we have a set of the
EK Vector RTX 180 Ti blocks, and we’re going
to be doing that inside of your
legendary Skunkworks PC. This is the
centerpeice of my channel. It’s designed to grow
as the channel grows. There’s nothing
pracTical about it. It’s a little big
and over the top, kind of like me, And obviously with the
new graphics card launch, it was perfect Time for me to
kind of do a complete overhaul. And we’re going to top it
off today with the 20 Series, obviously. [Dwight]: Nice.
And then, what did you upgrade to? [Jayz]: So now we have
an X299 with a 7960X. We’re going to have
the same 64 gigs of Dominator Special EdiTion in there. We’ve got the new
EK-Velocity RGB block, and then the rest of it,
all the water cooling stays the same. CoolStream RADs. This is the PE
top and bottom. Of course, it’s all crammed
into a Caselabs SMA8, which is a little bit more
nostalgic now than it was, considering, unfortunately,
the company is no longer producing cases. And so I’m kind of
excited to update this and start playing on it again. [Dwight] I haven’t had the honor
of water cooling a 20 Series card yet. I’ve done plenty of 10 Series,
and a bunch before that, as well. So I’m really curious to see
how you go about doing this, because it is a
new shroud design. [Jaze]:Yeah and I’m curious too, because it’s my first Time
doing it the right way. So here’s a new
2080 Ti RTX card from Nvidia. This is a Founder’s EdiTion card. The new Founder’s 2080 Ti
looks great but obviously, we’re going to be watercooling this today
using the EK-Vector block specifically meant
for the 2080 Ti. So the first thing we have to do
is actually remove the back plate off of our
Founder’s EdiTion card. and to do that, we are
going to remove all of these small, silver Phillips-head screws
from the backplate. And before moving the four largest screws
surrounding the core right here, you need to remove these two screws that
are closer to the actual PCIE bracket. These are going to
be a little bit bit larger. Now that we’ve done that,
we can go ahead and remove the four
spring-loaded screws on the back of the backplate. Now we’re going to remove
the three larger black screws that are on the PCIE bracket. Okay, now that all
of those screws are loose, we’re going to go ahead
and peel our backplate off. But before we do that,
you need to be careful because there are some wire
connecTions underneath here. So you don’t want to rip it
apart too quickly. You sort of want
to wiggle it back and forth. As you can see you also have some
thermal pads that are on the backplate. So you want to be
mindful of those and where they went. And now that we got the
back plate off, you can see that there are 4 mm stand off bolts
that are holding the cooler to the PCB. So those have to go next. Now I recommend starTing
from the porTion around the core. The four that are on the middle
of the card and then working your way outward from there. Now it’s important to
keep in mind while doing this there are a ton of SMCs
on the back of this PCB. So you want to be careful, take your Time, and be gentle, so you don’t
accidentally break one of these off. So once all the back screws are removed,
you’re ready to separate the cooler. Now you want to be careful
because there is a connector on the back of the card
right here and there’s not a lot slack. So be very gentle,
wiggle it back and forth, and when it comes apart,
there’s one connector on the back of the PCB
and there’s not a lot of slack on that. So you want to be very careful,
reach in there with either your fingers
or a piece of plasTic. Once you do that, the card
is ready to accept its waterblock. Alright so now we got to clean this PCB
and get it ready for the waterblocks. So I just peel off
all the thermal pads. Some are going to sTick to the cooler,
some are going to sTick to the card. I basically just sTick them
wherever they go back on the cooler. In case, for some reason, I ever have
to replace this cooler back on the card. So we’re going to use
some isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol. And we are going to now clean off as
much as this thermal material as we can. If it gets all over the sides,
don’t freak out. This is a non conducTive
thermal paste sets used from the factory. It just gets a little bit messy. We’re also going to
remove any of this blue stuff. We want this to be as clean as possible. So when we apply
our new thermal paste, it’s all fresh. So now that
the core’s all clean, we’re going to go ahead and
hit the areas that we’re going to be applying thermal pads to. So we want to
clean off the chokes. We want to do a little bit of alcohol
on each one of the memory modules. That way, the thermal pads can sTick. We’re going to do the same thing
on the back of the PCB as well. Because there were thermal pads back here, there’s going to be
thermal grease left behind. So you just want to gently wipe off
any of the shiny spots. But again, be mindful of
of all the semi connectors on the back. You don’t want to damage
anything on the PCB. So for these cards,
we’re going to be using not only the EK Vector waterblock,
which is a full cover block. We’re also going to be using
one of the EK back plates. And inside there you’re going to find
all your thermal pads, all your screws, and then you
need to follow the QR code for the actual
installaTion manual. One of the things
that’s different here with the new Vector Series from EK is
the way the flow works through the block. So instead of all of the flow
going one direcTion through the core, It now goes directly down
on the hottest part of the core. And then splits off from there
around the memory as well as around the VRM
or the power deliveries. So you’re getTing
a very high flow rate with a very
efficient design in terms of flow. You have one wire that actually
runs up to the manifold right here. As well as another wire that comes up and connects to your
actual RGB header. So you want to make sure
these are not going to be in the way, as you’re test fitTing this
on your graphics card. So you’re going to find three different
sets of thermal pads here. One’s a one-millimenter thick, which will be used
on the power delivery. And then you have some
individually-cut thermal pads here that are specifically
for the memory modules. Once your thermal pads are in place, you need to make sure that you peel off
the protecTive glue backing material. This, if you leave it on,
will cause you overheaTing problems. It’s easier to take something pointy like
a razor blade and just sort of scrape it. And then once it comes off,
you can just peel the rest. So now we need to take
this single thermal pad and we need to cut it
basically into four strips. We’re going to be
applying it to these chokes, these chokes, and then
the mosfets next to them on either side. So we have to take this
one strip and cut it into four. And then just like on the memory, make sure you remove all
of the blue backing material. Otherwise, the thermal
pads won’t do their job. Take the included thermal paste, and we’re going to apply it in
the x-method with the cross, as you can see right here on the screen. This is exactly how they
recommend that it be applied. So in this case, that’s
what we’re going to be doing. So two things,
this is why I use the box, because we’re going
to flip the PCB onto the block instead of the other way around. Otherwise, we can’t
see the holes to line it up. The other thing is remember
that wire I menTioned earlier? You want to make sure this is
sort of routed down and out of the way. You can’t leave this just
chilling up here in this area, because it could interfere on
some of these components right here on the back of the board. So once our wire is out of the way
and we’re all set up on our box, we can go ahead
and then just slowly turn this over and line it up with our graphics card. Because we’re using EK backplates, we can’t just start
screwing down our block. Otherwise, we might need to
remove some of our screws. So using the backplate, we’re
going to reference which screws we’re going to be leaving empty
while applying the PCB to the water block. StarTing with the four screws
right around the GPU core, Tighten these down in a star pattern, and then work your way out from there. Now in this corner of the PCB right here, the part closest to the motherboard
and the outside of the case, you’re going to be using
a screw and a nut, because there is
no stand off to screw into. So just place the screw through the hole,
kind of line up the nut underneath, and then you can just Tighten
it down finger Tight. Now we’re almost ready
to apply the backplate, but we have to prepare that
with thermal pads as well. So we’re going to cut off one
1-inch by 1-inch square. This is going to be applied to
the very center of the core cutout for the backplate right there. And then there are two raised
areas on the backplate that touch the back side
of the mosfets on the PCB, so it’s these two areas right here. So you’re giong to cut strips
out of the thermal pads very similar to how we did it on the PCB, and then we can put
the backplate in place. So the backplate includes
our own set of hardware including these plasTic washers. Now these washers are very important. You want to make sure the
backplate doesn’t ground out anywhere on the back of this PCB. So once you get all
of these washers in place, move the backplate
into place and Tighten it down. Okay, so last but not least, we got to do something with this wire. And this is going to be
dependent on your case. If you’ve got a verTical mount, then you’re going to
want to tuck it out of the way maybe behind the card, zipTie it. In our case, it’s going to be
very tradiTional layout like this. So I’m just going to sort of push
it back up underneath the clear cover where it won’t be seen
and out of sight and out of mind. And just like that, we’ve applied
a new EK Vector full cover water block to our GeForce RTX 2080 Ti. So if you’re running a multi-card setup, you would just do that whole
process on both of your cards, like I did here. So next thing we’ve got to do
now is get these installed into Skunkwork. [Dwight]: Okay, so we’re
back and it’s all put together and it looks fantastic,
honestly, I love the UV. [Jaze]: It turned out a lot
better than I thought it was going to. I mean a lot better than this– I mean this worked, but it
wouldn’t have looked great in there. But I think it looks fantastic. Obviously the blocks perform well. They look great, but more importantly,
it’s about how well they perform. And then tying in little things
that people don’t really think about like sleeved cables. The UV green on these CableMod
cables Ties perfectly with the fluid. This little S-bend kind of bothered me, the idea of it,
at first when I was doing it. And now it’s one of my favorite features. But that’s kind of the whole
point of Skunkworks, right? This is not a build
to kind of show off and be like, “Hey, look, look how custom this is.” Because it’s really not that custom. It’s basic hand tools,
a heat gun to bend the tubes, screwdrivers, drill bits. It’s nothing that you can’t
find in the average garage. You can have an
amazing-looking system like this without any sort of special
or formal training to do it. [Dwight]: Well thank you very
much for your Time. Gave us a valuable
lesson on how easy it is to water cool GPUs now. [Jaze]: Well no, thank you
for the graphics card, because I am going to do
a lot of gaming on this. [Dwight]: Okay, we’ll
get out of your hair so you can start installing some games. [Jaze]: Excellent, thank you,
thanks for coming by. [Dwight]: If you want to see
more of Skunkworks, be sure to give Jaze TwoCents a follow. There will be a link down below. And if you want us to
collaborate with any other tech YouTuber, just let us know in the comments. Thanks for watching,
and we’ll see you for the next one.

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