Budget Gaming PC 2018 Under £460 ($600) Complete Build TUTORIAL

hello and welcome to the computer labs
YouTube channel so today we are looking at a reasonably inexpensive gaming PC
build and it’s easily upgradeable so all this video is easy the longest
video I’ve done laughing is brown that half an hour mark so I will try and
speed up certain sections to try and obviously keep the video as short as
possible it will slow it down when we get to certain point in the video that
are of interest and that I need to explain so we’re gonna start off with
the case which is a cool must master box like 3.1 over perspex a side panel so I
really like this type of case not only did it let you look into the case and
fault find if you need to do but also obviously you into RGB lighting or LED
lighting you can add them la today there’s nothing on this board that’s
built-in with the built-in lighting some more boards have lighting built-in to
the PC mobile board so you can see it through the case and as a nice effect
especially into if your industry meaning you have it in the background or
something like that so we’ll tech the perspex case off this does have some
plastic on the top of it as you can see there which can peel off later what peel
it off yet so it just looks a bit murky that’s only purely because of the
protective film that’s on the perspex okay so this is the case and as you can
see inside as a cub or box with some bits in it that allow you to change the
color of the red flashing that you can see on the case and the top and bottom
of the front that’s in the cardboard box I’m just on clipping now so obviously if
you’re doing a similar bill or same build you need to take the tower apps
off and get rid of these get these bits out of the case so yeah laksa inside
this box is the clip-on add-ons for this particular case it allows you to change
from the red to white or to black and they just clip on and off there’s one
that goes on the bottom of the front of the case and there’s one that goes on at
the top near the USB and headphone break out so you see there that’s the white
clip for the top so we wanted to change it and didn’t that one didn’t have the
red then you can never change it to all-black or turn it to white flashing
so I’ll put them to one side there also in the case you do
of the you know bits and pieces so I’ll just get rid of the tie wraps but you
can see they’re right in the middle of the case is the cables for the breakout
which connects the top from outside connectors to the motherboard so you see
the connectors there that the biggest one is the USB free so on the top front
there on the outside you can see your USB you’ve got your headphone in
microphone power switch and reset switch and all
them will be needed in to be connected later date once we get the motherboard
in obviously once you get them all born in you can then connect them up inside
and test it all later today I will come into detail a bit later on I want to get
a bit further into the video so obviously just familiarize yourself with
them just check them over just make sure that you’re familiar with the type of
connector they are also in the case comes small bits and pieces so you get
some tie wraps to tidy up the cables later on once you
get your cables connected up to the moldboard
you also get some standoff screws and some standard screws for connecting the
motherboard to the case which again or coming to detail once we get the
motherboard connected up once we get them all ball mounted into the cooler
master case okay so we’ll just put that at the case to one side for a minute and
we shall get them all bored out so I’m using a Asus Prime at B 450 M – okay in
this particular build the reason why I’ve used that one there’s certain
things that the client wanted and that this board supplied I usually tend to
triangle for one a bit with a bit more bling so maybe some built-in RGB lights
or something like that this one doesn’t have that use yeah it has the usual
error lights that you would expect to see on most modern motherboards but
lacks a doesn’t have any RGB lighting built-in well that’s not to say they
can’t add it at a later date so again once if you’re using the same on board
or any more board make sure you get all the bits out of the box and familiarize
yourself with the bits and pieces that come up with your particular motherboard
that you’re going to use for building the PC so the usual stuff manual
motherboard driver disk some manufacturers are better at
producing the manuals than others an ace is usually quite fora and detailed or
they can download the drivers and stuff and the manuals off the web okay so this
that I’m showing you now that’s the MDOT two plastic anchor that we will we need
to attach later on that’s the backplate that they’ll need to go in first so that
once I’ve shown the mobile that we’ll be going in first that goes in the butt
plate needs to go in the right way and also needs to make sure that we put that
in first or might as well have to disconnect everything if we put that in
a later day as the main motherboard and anti-static bag and also some SATA
cables again just a couple in there and if using a separate CD or DVD Drive you
will need to be using them I’m actually putting a DVD drive into this particular
build so I’ll just try get the case into a better position so you can see when I
mount this back plate into the cooler master case I’ll just trample it on
something it just so you can see it a bit easier I would also like to add I do
have an anti-static strap on it is round my leg at the moment obviously you know
the wear on your wrist but so I didn’t get in the way the camera and I’ve got
it around my leg so don’t affect the motherboard okay so this is the cover
plate separates the motherboard from the outside world for inserting your
keyboard and mouse USBs and things like that so to make sure you get the right
way around I was just getting over board check it up against that so you can
visualize it going in then you can clip in at the backplate and I literally do
there’s no screws attached they all do exactly the same fittings they just push
in onto the ribs that are preformed on the chroma plate so I’ll make sure it’s
all tight and snug we fitted into the cooler master case which although it’s
good they’re happy with that so make sure that’s more pushed in inside the
case you can see all the different mounting screws there for the different
type of motherboards so I’m not gonna mount the standoff screws
to the cool mastercase yet because i’m gonna mount knee components on to the
motherboard before we start to place things in side the case so this is the
moldboard out of its anti-static bag and we’re gonna put the processor in that
socket now just in the kitchen we format first so we need to obviously get this
case out of the way so we can see what we’re doing and then we’ll get the
motherboard into the center so we can let see it a little bit a little bit
better when we put the processor in okay so for this particular build I am using
a AMD the actual spec is an AMD arisin five 2400 G which includes the Vega
graphics chip so that was important with this particular build because we were
working on a budget so I want to be able to play games it’s never going to play
anything can 4k but it will play most of the things reasonably well by just
turning a few of the maybe some other qualities down but it does play quite
smoothly and quite happily along with most modern games it’s just not going to
break any records for that and also that’s the reason why I bought this
particular motherboard so it can be upgraded at a later day and it’s got the
option you can use and put in a separate graphics card ok so again that this is a
standard stock AMD fan for the CPU which is perfectly fine for this build really
nice quite a nice fan actually from AMD and
even when you overclock this chip which you can do if you want if you want to do
I’m not going to show you how to go out in this video I’m just going to show you
how to get it all up and running but you can play around and overclock the
processor if you require and the fan the ones that have overclocked the fun can
keep up there again if you want in to upgrade you could upgrade it and install
a separate process of fun but we’re going to soon a use the standard one so
getting the processor out of the plastic packet and you can see there’s a
processor may see a aware of where the small gold diamond shape is because that
is what need to match up on the motherboard
saying sell me top rice will just been laid a picture there showing you how it
mounts but you basically line up the small triangle with the triangle gold
triangle on the processor so once you’re aware of both of these where they
actually mount then you can go ahead and start to position your processor on your
motherboard a little spring clip there again just lift that out the way it just
pops up out of the way place your processor nice and gently down let’s
rock it back on forward make sure it’s located as you expect it to be and a
little spring clip push that down and click it in place and that holds the
pins and processor in a place on its socket
so the next thing is to mount the CPU fan me to make sure that that’s nice and
clean on the bottom of the fan extend point in there to the heat sink compound
that comes pre-installed on this dock fun so it was make sure there’s no dirt
that’s landed on that don’t wipe it or anything just make sure there’s nothing
that’s in there that’s gonna the stuck why even building on to the paste so
just familiarize yourself with mounting the fan this particular fan has a
different type of mount in these two different types for this particular
processor this particular one that requires us to take the side clips off
which you see me just unscrew in there there’s two black plastic clips so
depending on again which AMD processor using it might use a different mounting
method but under these four plastic clips and there’s a metal plate which
I’ll just let drop off because I want to show it here it goes onto the back now
see there’s the back plate so that’s already pre-installed on the motherboard
and you need to make sure that lines up with the holes on the motherboard when
we go to fit the CPU cooling fan so these small screws screw in to that back
plate that we need to put on to the back of the motherboard to allow us to mount
the fan so just line the holes back up if it’s dropped out because if you are
quite loose they don’t usually stay in to make sure it’s the hole the spigots
stick through the mobile bored and now we can start looking at
mountain the farmer and also this is a good time to make itself aware where the
actual header is that connects the farmer to the motherboard so position it
sort of in a place and get a rough idea how are you gonna mount the cable and
I’m gonna mount this fan in a particular way I want to show you an arrow that is
usually done so I will have to take this fan off again later on in the build but
I’m going to screw it on which I’ve done 100 times but you will see in a second I
will show once it’s in position there’s a way the actual the particular fund the
same defund there is two RAM slots and AMD I put a small bit of plastic with
the words AMD on the top of the fun that has caught me out a couple of times so
you end up mounting the fan like I’ve shown you here and then you got to put
the RAM in and it doesn’t actually fit in the slot so like I said I’ll be
taking this one back off to clean it but I just want to show you when it’s
mounted so you think you’re all good you’ve got the power cable connected to
them all board again like so check your manual to find out where that is and you
can see the fan there in place although it’s good but under indicating there to
RAM slots so happens here is you go to put the ramming and it fouls on the
plastic where they power comes out of the fan so do not put the phone in in
the same orientation out of here if you’ve got a similar board like so this
has caught me out a couple of times depending on the board manufacturer
purely because I’ve not put the RAM in first just to check how the fun that
lines up if you see that is very tight and can’t quite see down at 90 degrees
so I’ll get the RAM out I’m using eight gigs of ram I’m using a Corsair
Vengeance two terms four gigabytes ddr4 – 3200 Ram so you see that as I’m
indicating because that small black lump that’s on the fan the actual RAM will
not go in it is angled so the processor CPU fan has to come off again that so I
get this in so I’ll spoon the fun round off-camera and now we’re back in action
so you can see there the Romney is still tight but it does just about going in
place with the CPU cooler fan and the RAM in position so we are good to go
like I said the gap is tight as I’m indicates in there so it’s something to
be aware of you might not have that problem if using a different motherboard
because it obviously was a different mobile and the RAM might be slightly
different position but they are usually quiet type has caught me out several
times I suppose the trick will be to put the RAM in first but I usually always
put the processor in first so it’s just a case of just visualizing where that
goes so I’m about to reposition my CPU fan on the wall board so now I can get a
power cable back in clicked on it to the mobile board they onto the correct
header for the power supply to go to the processor firm and again you can tidy
the cable up if you so wish with the cable ties that came with the case or if
there’s some that come with your motherboard
just be careful obviously we’re clipping it to the side of the thumb you don’t
follow the actual phone itself but I’m just gonna leave my loose just to keep
this video moving along because the next thing I wanna do is Mount the SSD the m2
drive again for this particular build I am using a coarser MFP 300 240 gigabyte
coarser and to drive and this is a solid-state drive that mounts directly
into the m2 slot again that was an old reason why I suspect this particular
moldboard cuz I needed the m2 drive and while he’s in 240 gig because the
customer doesn’t really need a massive storage you can see I’m just in to get
him in the red box that’s where it mounts on this particular board but yeah
the customer doesn’t need a massive storage Turner 40 gig is more than
enough andele today we can add a separate hard
drive if we wanted to to increase storage usually with the gaming
computers usually we’re on an SSD drive within a standard hard drive connected
with the SATA cable and that’s sort of a standard settle that most gamers use so
use apps the old sort of style hard drive story
games on and then run your OS your operating system if that’s Linux or
Windows run that off the solid-state drive so it boots really quickly and
also you know if you get a reasonably sized when you come out a few games on
there as well install a few games on there as well
so this is the coarser MP 300m to drive and now we’re going to mount that onto
the motherboard again if you use in a different mall
board and he’s just have a look see where yours is and see how it mounts and
just familiarize yourself on your mounting holes m2 drives the different
can be different lengths so you can see these sort of three different holes on
this particular board that mount the actual drive to the slot this particular
one is going to go to the end slot so I need to obviously familiarize yourself
with that before you start getting the mounting clip some boards have a small
screw with a standoff screws up behind them
the Asus ones tend to have a small little plastic riser that clicks into
the board and then clicks in it to the emma to drive so I will just get this
the plastic mounting alright little pop screw that you can see there that goes
on to the motherboard MDOT to Anka Asus calls it so we’re
gonna get this little stand off anchor clicked onto the board and then we can
mount the drive really quick and easy to mount onto the wall board just like this
some have a little screw I mean they’re just as easy anyway because you put the
standoffs screw in first put your MDOT two SSD drive into the slot lower it
down and then it just put a another screw into the stand off one this
particular one like so this Asus one it’s a little plastic sort of pop it
screw it just pops onto the board and you just push it through the hole and it
sits through with two legs that come out the back so you can’t come back out you
can’t pull it out if you need to do with a pair of long lost tweezers or
something like that so now you’ve got it in position you need to just put the
m-dot to drive in and just try hold it to the
so you can see just goes in a slight angle first about 45 degrees angle and
then once you get it down and pushed into this a copper connector you can
then click the top of the SSD and get into position so I’m just trying to hold
it to the camera so you can see what’s going on as it goes down just out
overview they unfortunately but one it’s in position you’ll be able to see so it
has a little pull tag so you can quickly disconnect the drive if you want to do
so that I wasn’t as quite happy with the position the way they loops act because
it was the front of it was sort of sat on another slot so I’m just positioning
it there just so you can get to the little pull string little pull cord on
it it’d be easier and it’s out of the way of them tor slots ok so that’s it in
position and that’s the SSD drive installed as we want it to be nice neat
and tidy in its slot so now all the components are installed our motherboard
we need to start thinking about how that’s going to go in to the PC case the
Coolermaster case so just offer it up so you’re just familiar on you can just
how it’s gonna go and how you’re gonna put it in some boards are a bit tighter
than others so sometimes you have to wiggle around a bit and get them into
position so just offer it up so you can see where it’s going next thing is to
find the mounting holes or touch some these rats the beginning I’m just
pointing to different ones there you need to sort of match these up to your
motherboard different more boards some in different places depending on what
type of a board you haven’t gone for so standard sort of board size is these
micro ATX these mini ITX this standard ATX there’s also flex ATX you see there
this case will accommodate micro ATX and mini ITX indicated by the M and the eye
on the different screw holes so if using this same case then you just need to
make sure that your more board is the correct size and then you can start
mounting the standoffs screws so I’m using a small nut runner magnetic not
runner screws look like that picture I’m just
brought up on the screen it there so this you can use players if you haven’t
gotten up run there it’s just text you a bit longer or a small spanner or small
sockets well it’s just a bit quicker with this not Renault that I use because
it can just offer it down to this screw hole and then screw them in place so
I’ll just get it into camera so you can see well the shadow on it so I’ve just
screwed that one in there and like say if you offer your board up and just keep
putting it in you can match the holes on your board to the screw holes on your
case so you can see there I’m just showing you where they actually are on
the move board the two that I have got in someone’s going there and the ones
going there but there is multiples around the case that I need to screw in
so I’m showing you another one there and as you go around the board you can see
the particular mounting holes just to make sure that they’re all in place once
you’ve got a roll in place then put the motherboard into the case and then screw
the small screws that came with the case into the stand off screws it should be
all in position as I’ve shown there I’m not sure me screwing it in because
really it’s just screwing a board on to some stand off screws okay so next thing
is the power supply which I am using a it’s a coarse vs 450 watt this
particular one was a refurbished one from scan and obviously it’s new it’s
just refurbished that’s why it was in a brown box so once you’ve got your power
supply in the right orientation and you’ve got it push up to the back of the
case there should be four screws that either come with the power supply or
possibly came in your cases in the little bugger screws that came with the
case so you screw the obviously possible iron make sure it’s nice and secure then
you need to start thinking about how you’re going to connect the power supply
so this particular board requires two different types of power to the board
it requires a 24-pin e a TX power connector and an 8 pin EA TX 12
volt power connector as well I’m going to feed these through the
back plate so I need to remove the back cover from the motherboard on to feed
them through so it just keeps the front of the case tidy and the cables will be
hidden behind the plate that separates them all board from this back plate I’m
removing now so I’ll just remove that and then I’ll show you the two cables
that need to go through like I said the one is a 24 pin it one’s the 8 pin
depending on what type of power supply you have or what time board and this
might be slightly different but if using the same one then feed them through the
hole and then you need to come back through so you can connect the relevant
cables so I’m just positioning the 24 pin one first make sure that you’ve got
a nice firm hold when you’re clicking these in and also make sure your board
is nice and secure on that back plate which you should be if you’ve got all
the relevant screws in so find the right orientation and you see I’m just
struggling a bit just get in the pin in if you are struggling a bit you can just
check make sure that the clip that holds it in position there is a small clip on
the front of the actual power cable that clips over a little lip at once it goes
in and you can also check there are different shapes we can’t go through in
the wrong way it has to only go in one way around so once you get clicked onto
the board then just try and wiggle okay a little bit to get it nice and tidy
don’t it stretch on this side it really wants to be tie wrapped in LA today but
except looks it will look nice and tight when I get the back plate back on and
now I need to connect the eight pin one so find the relevant end on your power
loom that comes out to your power supply this particular build will not require
any more power apart from these two that I’m putting in like I say if you’re
putting a DVD or a CD drive or an extra hard drive then you will need to use
some of these extra power cable looms for them then particular bits and pieces
or components that you’re adding to your machine so get the eight pin wanna feed
it through the bottom back through the top loop and then get this in the
correct orientation I’m just going to speed up a bit here as I mess around
with the cable just get in the right position and I’m gonna click it in I’ll
just struggling just getting that one while
holding it an angle so I’m just tidying up and clicking everything came position
but there it is click Tom – it’s just in the top left-hand corner there just in
the shadow you can’t quite see it well that’s the apron one connected I think
the main thing from this is make sure all the cables that you need are tidied
up because that’s what will make the difference when you put your perspex
case back on so this loom that I have left over these extra power cables I’m
just going to connect them all together with a tie wrap or a cable tie D
whatever you’ve got to hand and I’m gonna push them in the small hard drive
holder that’s on this particular case like so if you’re using a different case
you might have to just wrap it to the bottom of the case buddy see is there a
way of just trying to keep everything tidy so I’m just pushing it in out the
way into the little riser that holds hard drives so they’re out of the way
and talked either way for now I’m gonna start and connect the USB breakouts on
the top of the case and also going to connect the headphone audio jack and
microphone jack and I’m also going to connect the power switch reset switch
and the hard drive LED I just on the side know if your connectors are just
black or don’t show any indication of what plus or minuses and then the little
arrows I’m showing there is usually the one that’s positive or the red cable is
usually positive so I can’t get the camera in close and also I’m gonna have
connect off camera but the USB one just clicks in which is a central one there
the one I left is the audio again just clicks in in a certain position they
can’t get them the other ones are a bit tricky is the power switch which is the
ones on the right there the little individual ones there’s power switch
reset switch and your hard drive light there bit fiddly connectors some come
we’re mounting clip that you can pre mount it and click it in position or
some or individual like this particular board so you just have to follow the
instruction on the board there and just put them on to the right little stand
off jumpers that come out for them particular switches ok so now it’s time
to install windows which I’m installing on this
Jane Windows 10 so I’ve started up here but I’ll start acquittal Wireless
Keyboard so I need to swap it across to a wired keyboard because the wireless
keyboards don’t usually work until you get windows in stalled with the correct
drivers so connected up a ps2 keyboard yours might be USB keyboard but connect
up the keyboard if it’s USB or ps2 connect them into the board and the back
of the board and then switch on and then you should get some up prompts on how to
enter your BIOS for your particular manufacturer if using Asus then it is
use the Delete key so I miss pushing the Delete key there and it went straight
away to try and boot into the operating system but obviously is nothing
installed yet so I’ll try it again restarted again keep my finger you see
them pushing on the Delete key and this should then get us into the BIOS setup
which you can see now you might get a menu before that that said it needs to
see I set the defaults for the process because it recognizes that so just push
the relevant button and then get into your BIOS menu like I’m showing there so
everything’s running okay in the actual case and this is the UEFI BIOS menu so
this is what they call the simplified version they call the Advanced Mode
which used to be the sort of normal mode and to get to the answer
and Vance mode it’s bullsh f7 if you’ve got multiple drives on the right it will
show them there you can pull them up and down if you’ve got a mouse attached and
Lawrence is just showing it the MP 300 SSD and to drive I’m gonna push f7 and
go into the menus here and the one that you were looking for is the boot menu
here and bit further down there’s one there on the third down and says boot
configuration you go into there and you can slap the boot configuration in there
to set your particular drive that you’re going to install so I’ll just exit out
of this just for saying I’m just going to exit
we’ve saving and then show you again that this menu that you will get now it
can’t see any windows it’s saying there’s nothing that I can see I can’t
boot into anything so you need to then get windows now I’ve got my windows
install on a USB Drive so I’m gonna use the top breakout I’m just gonna put it
in the top of the case the USB Drive Twins
this has got the windows installer on the USB you might have yours on a CD so
you will need a CD drive for that so I’m going to insert that into the USB and
then switch the machine on and what I’ll do now I’ve got the USB drive in I’ll
just go back into the BIOS just to show so I’m pushing Delete key here I’ll just
go into the menu just to show you where you set the boot drive so now we have
our USB thumb drive with the windows 10 installer on it we can then change the
drive so now and also have called a different drives that it is now showing
up us and you need to pick depending on how you’re installing windows you need
to select the installer as the first boot drive so that’s the first thing
that the computer will see when it switches on so you can change them in
this easy mold as they call it so you can flip that up and down and drag and
drop them and if you’ve got a mouse connected so you make sure that your
installer is the first one in that list I’m gonna do mine in the advance so go
down to the boot menu and then you’re in here you pick up which one you want to
see so this is a way the computer decides how it’s going to boot so the
the boot option one is the first thing it sees and that needs to be Windows 10
to make sure your boot option one is the Windows 10 installer and your SSD drive
is the second one and then you can exit and make sure you save changes when
exiting again if it’s a different board it might have a different key to save
the changes but it should alert you if you want to when you try to push Escape
key to get out the BIOS and now we should get a prompt that says press any
key to boot from CD I know it’s not a CD in my case but it’s still the same CD or
DVD so push the space bar you might be loading from a CD or DVD it’s just the
the way that Windows has always done it that even though it’s on a USB stick
okay so you push your spacebar any key on your keyboard and we’re now telling
the computer we want to boot from the bootable Drive in our case the Windows
10 installer that is on the USB stick so you might have a bit of patience here it
might stick in a minute so to load the Windows installer off the your
particular media you’re coming from I shouldn’t take it too long
start seeing the spinning circle as you can see on the screen there and then we
should start getting the windows prompts to do our different things to install
and the first thing you get is always the language to install the keyboard
layout so pick up your particular one of use in UK pick up UK from America
usually America 1 and so on I’m using the keyboard so I’ll just quickly flick
through the menus just to pick which one I want to install so I’m using United
Kingdom layouts for keyboard and language etc click on Next and then we
want to click on Install Now and then we’ll get this set up with starting
screen as you can see now and then we should get to the put in it they key in
it so if you purchased or if you already have a key for Windows 10 this is where
you put your key and you can click on the door of a key product key and it
will still install but obviously you will get the windows isn’t activated
once you get into the menus so I’ve just blurred out the key here as I put the
windows 10 install key for this particular machine in so once you’ve
either put your key in or picked I don’t have a product key you can then click in
the bottom right hand corner and click on start or next and then get to the
next menu the next menu is how we’re going to install windows so we get two
options on this so let’s need to accept the terms and conditions which you can
just see with them just showing you as I’m using the keyboard mouse accept the
terms and conditions and then we get another option we have all grey windows
and do not reset acceptable there’s no windows on this currently or we do a
custom in the store click on custom install it shows you the drive you
install you only got one in like this particular machine has it will just show
the one and we can just click Next again and then let it go through the windows
setup menu this again takes a while cuz it’s loading all the particular windows
information and the OS on to your new m2 SSD drive so it’s putting it all across
from the stick onto there if you can exit the internet it will go a lot for
updates as well once it’s done the updates and install them it will then
restart your machine for you and then you should be
getting something likes well this next screen we should start seeing windows
install if it boot tries to boot to the same menus that you’ve just been seeing
then you need to pull out your installer drive or change your boot drive priority
round by using the delete key because sometimes the machine’s not clever
enough to know that you’ve just tried to install Windows and you’d want it to now
boot to Windows so pull out your USB stick or pull out the media drive and
then let it boot on to your windows who boots and find no problem you get this
screen and then you can click on I was going to use Express settings you can
look at them individually but this is just getting down into the nitty-gritty
of a Windows 10 so I’ll create an account for this PC so give it a name
click on how you want to use Cortana and the different settings there and then
let it go through the install or finalizing the install so I’m just speed
this bit up just to get this video wrapped up so yours will take it five
minutes or so maybe it took longer once that’s done you’ll be presented into
Windows 10 so that’s it that’s how to build a relatively cheap gaming PC from
scratch using all the components as you can see if you like the video please do
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